tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4209775885091252722024-03-13T10:59:29.035+00:00BUILDING A GD 427Gardner Douglas GD 427 MKIVSTRhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/05729074033045662061noreply@blogger.comBlogger364125tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-420977588509125272.post-29692117330018392402010-08-15T16:33:00.002+01:002010-08-15T22:12:05.715+01:00So What Happened?.....After 955 days in build and 465 days on the road my near 4 year affair with my Gardner Douglas 427 is over.<br />
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It was not an easy decision to come to and it took some time to finally decide. Even today as I sit here typing this and looking outside at the sun shining I miss it, I think I'll always miss it.... it really was one hell of a car.<br />
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It is more a testament to the years of effort by Andy Burrows in the design of the GD than it is to my own abilities, that a car building virgin managed to produce a car the likes of which neither myself or my friends had ever come close to experiencing before (a few of them probably don't want to ever experience that again!).<br />
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It would be a relatively straightforward task to put a large engine in a small(ish) car that went very fast in a straight line. It would perhaps be a little more difficult to produce a car that also went very fast round corners.<br />
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The GD consistently out-run and out-cornered everything on four wheels that it came across. It was thus only going to be a matter of time until I would have to part with my driving license. Of course self control is the answer, which is easy unless you have been born without the "discipline" gene! The same reason why I gave up Sports Bikes all those years ago.<br />
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My wife loved the car, she thought it was a beautiful masterpiece of automotive engineering......... she was just never that comfortable in it. Whilst for some the exposure to such a raw driving experience, with the associated vibration, noise, wind and blurring scenery would be reason enough to be alive, for others it would confirm all that was good about about our modern euro tin boxes in which we go about our business in relative anaesthesia from the driving experience.<br />
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At the outset of the build we had visions of long trips round Europe in the completed car. The unfortunate reality was that fuel costs and passenger comfort would have been a difficult issue to resolve.<br />
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I used the car quite a lot to go to work, but this was mainly to amuse myself by taking people out for a ride at lunchtime and scaring them. The rest of the time I would take it out for 1-2 hour blasts on my own.... sometimes scaring myself. We used to have some regional cobra club meets once a month with a decent drive out, but these sadly died a death due to lack of interest. This soon became the norm..... commuting or the odd solitary blast out once a week.<br />
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I felt almost if I was insulting the GD by not using it purposefully. I have never been a polisher or a garage exhibitionist. I like to use things, all my sports bikes got ridden through winter..... yup... ruined every single one of them! I just didn't seem to have enough opportunities to use the GD for anything more than a quick blast out now and again. It was in danger of becoming an under utilised garage ornament.<br />
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Everybody's circumstances and reasons are different, I had to conclude that my own were not perhaps exactly commensurate with cobra ownership. I now believe that I would be better off with a true GT type of car and such a style of car would be more suited to our aspirations.<br />
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As I cannot afford an Aston Martin or in deed a Maserati I may well have to get the tools out once more and begin another project. If only Andy would hurry up and get the GT or MSE into kit production!<br />
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I have thoroughly enjoyed the build of the GD and as professional engineer I have been able to thoroughly appreciate the thought and effort that has gone into the production of the GD 427. I have learnt many new skills, including how to cover your dog in expanding foam, how to set fire to things behind your back with a grinder, how to drill holes upside down in impossibly tight spaces.<br />
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I have enjoyed the "community" aspects of the project, helping other builders whether they be GD or other and I hope that I can continue to do so.<br />
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The blog will remain, not as a memorial but as a testament to what one man can achieve in a normal domestic garage, with a modest assortment tools, some common sense and a bit of patience. I hope in some way it may inspire others to take the plunge and fulfill their dreams.<br />
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I would like to thank Andy, Meena, Paul, Craig and Lester at GD firstly for the excellent product initially, and secondly for their never ending support and patience with my "stupid" questions.<br />
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I would also like to thank Ian and Jez at British American Engines for the fantastic engine that gave the GD its soul.<br />
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<div style="border-bottom: medium none; border-left: medium none; border-right: medium none; border-top: medium none;">Finally, the previous post was entitled "Gone but not Forgotten....". Bizarrely an e-mail popped into my inbox a week or so ago containing this picture:</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/_ZRAVhFdqFSQ/TGgGFuvV-dI/AAAAAAAANAc/MbUaJyHI4Ac/s1600/IMG_5635.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="300" ox="true" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/_ZRAVhFdqFSQ/TGgGFuvV-dI/AAAAAAAANAc/MbUaJyHI4Ac/s400/IMG_5635.jpg" width="400" /></a></div><div style="border-bottom: medium none; border-left: medium none; border-right: medium none; border-top: medium none;">There's my old Car with Andy Burrows just about to take <a href="http://www.andysgd427.blogspot.com/">Andy Roe's</a> Dad out for spin!</div><div style="border-bottom: medium none; border-left: medium none; border-right: medium none; border-top: medium none;"><br />
</div><div style="border-bottom: medium none; border-left: medium none; border-right: medium none; border-top: medium none;">Quite a special photograph.</div><div style="border-bottom: medium none; border-left: medium none; border-right: medium none; border-top: medium none;"><br />
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</div><div style="border-bottom: medium none; border-left: medium none; border-right: medium none; border-top: medium none;">So whilst this particular story has come to end, another one begins........ for those who have not tired of my ramblings have a look <a href="http://www.strprojectcerberus.blogspot.com/">here</a> , it will be slow to start with.... I have a 955 day backlog of DIY to address!</div><div style="border-bottom: medium none; border-left: medium none; border-right: medium none; border-top: medium none;"><br />
</div><div style="border-bottom: medium none; border-left: medium none; border-right: medium none; border-top: medium none;">Thanks for your interest over the years.</div><div style="border-bottom: medium none; border-left: medium none; border-right: medium none; border-top: medium none;"><br />
</div><div style="border-bottom: medium none; border-left: medium none; border-right: medium none; border-top: medium none;">Simon.</div>STRhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/05729074033045662061noreply@blogger.com6tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-420977588509125272.post-40452882413958573042010-07-13T19:11:00.009+01:002010-07-14T16:33:13.120+01:00Gone.....................but not forgotten.......6:30am....... one last time to wake the neighbours up......<br />
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<div style="border-bottom: medium none; border-left: medium none; border-right: medium none; border-top: medium none;">More later..............</div>STRhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/05729074033045662061noreply@blogger.com4tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-420977588509125272.post-87302430390944162472010-05-03T23:41:00.002+01:002010-05-20T23:13:14.051+01:00Stoneleigh 2010Well, it was that <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_0">Stoneleigh</span> time of year again. However, rather than a simple day trip to the show, this was gonna be a three day trip taking in a mates 40<span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_1">th</span> and another mates wedding as well. This explains the fitting of the soft top - so that my wife could travel in perfect warmth and dryness!! This was going to be the longest trip to date - 550 miles.<br /><br />The hood did the job - just letting in a few dribbles where there is a gap between the hood bows (to allow folding) - <span class="blsp-spelling-corrected" id="SPELLING_ERROR_2">easily</span> solved by sticking a bit of rag above the centre of the screen between the bows - appears to be a common problem and fix. It was also surprising how effective the heater became now that the warm air couldn't escape from the cockpit.<br /><br />Out of the 550 miles about 425 were cruising at 70 (1950 rpm), 75 were various speeds on local roads and 50 were <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_3">hooning</span> around taking mates for rides. If my calculations are correct then I appear to have got 19.1 mpg overall - better than I expected.<br /><br />Due to a slight camera issue the only photo's I have are other peoples - so thanks to Andy, Steve & Tommy:<br /><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5469034272863779266" style="DISPLAY: block; MARGIN: 0px auto 10px; WIDTH: 400px; CURSOR: hand; HEIGHT: 267px; TEXT-ALIGN: center" alt="" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/_ZRAVhFdqFSQ/S-Xpsep7ecI/AAAAAAAAM3s/mn0ENaZ_iDk/s400/P1030619.JPG" border="0" /><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5469034280353548850" style="DISPLAY: block; MARGIN: 0px auto 10px; WIDTH: 400px; CURSOR: hand; HEIGHT: 267px; TEXT-ALIGN: center" alt="" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/_ZRAVhFdqFSQ/S-Xps6joSjI/AAAAAAAAM30/KZmpehXAsfs/s400/P1030620.JPG" border="0" /><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5469034293546487266" style="DISPLAY: block; MARGIN: 0px auto 10px; WIDTH: 400px; CURSOR: hand; HEIGHT: 300px; TEXT-ALIGN: center" alt="" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/_ZRAVhFdqFSQ/S-XptrtEjeI/AAAAAAAAM4E/Y2CU2ymlClw/s400/Stoneleigh+2010+018.jpg" border="0" /><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5469034289590039522" style="DISPLAY: block; MARGIN: 0px auto 10px; WIDTH: 400px; CURSOR: hand; HEIGHT: 267px; TEXT-ALIGN: center" alt="" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/_ZRAVhFdqFSQ/S-Xptc9x8-I/AAAAAAAAM38/guT2afvRI9o/s400/P1030621.JPG" border="0" /><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5469034490245349666" style="DISPLAY: block; MARGIN: 0px auto 10px; WIDTH: 400px; CURSOR: hand; HEIGHT: 300px; TEXT-ALIGN: center" alt="" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/_ZRAVhFdqFSQ/S-Xp5IdvASI/AAAAAAAAM4U/EoQ_EeY2Y7k/s400/untitled.bmp" border="0" /> <div><div><a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/_ZRAVhFdqFSQ/S-Xpuf9LPqI/AAAAAAAAM4M/_4TT41H6QZc/s1600/P1030622.JPG"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5469034307572678306" style="DISPLAY: block; MARGIN: 0px auto 10px; WIDTH: 400px; CURSOR: hand; HEIGHT: 267px; TEXT-ALIGN: center" alt="" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/_ZRAVhFdqFSQ/S-Xpuf9LPqI/AAAAAAAAM4M/_4TT41H6QZc/s400/P1030622.JPG" border="0" /></a></div><div>Becasue of the need to get to the wedding I couldn't stay as long as I would have liked, but still I got to meet up with some old friends and meet some new ones and I also had a resonable look around the show - nothing really caught my eye for a new build though!</div><div> </div><div></div><div>The car looks a bit low to the ground, but that's due to the soft grass and a <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_4">bootfull</span> of tools - which wasn't really needed - apart from the fact that one of the bonnet hinge pins/bolts fell out on the way down. Easy enough to get a replacement cap head bolt at <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_5">Stoneleigh</span>, although I had to drop my the GD stand to ask Andy what size it was! (M10x45 just in case it happens to you)</div><div> </div><div></div><div>So, quite a long trip in some pretty poor weather with no real problems to report, <span class="blsp-spelling-corrected" id="SPELLING_ERROR_6">In fact</span> my wife quite enjoyed it to my surprise. This possibly has paved the way for some European Touring???</div></div>STRhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/05729074033045662061noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-420977588509125272.post-48820214543947760862010-04-23T18:16:00.003+01:002010-04-23T18:33:44.672+01:00Finishing the Suspension AdustmentsGot home a bit early today so took the Cob down to the local tyre place to put it on the 4 wheel laser alignment machine.<br /><br />I had suspected the front camber adjustments had resulted in an unbalanced toe-out condition - wondered why it <span class="blsp-spelling-corrected" id="SPELLING_ERROR_0">seemed</span> to turn in quick! If you move the upper wishbone fulcrum in (reducing shim) to increase camber, this effectively causes the steering arm to move outwards increasing toe-out.<br /><br />A quick <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_1">check</span> showed everything to be within a few minutes of where I wanted it camber wise - it was just the excessive toe out on the front to correct, the rears still being spot on.<br /><br />I had them set the front to 7 minutes toe-in per side - Andy advised running a little more toe along with the increased camber. I was just about to post up the computer output from the laser aligner only to discover I appear to have goosed my scanner???<br /><br />A bit of roundabout surfing on the way home revealed a marked improvement - despite pushing it quite hard it still felt solid as a rock due to the anti-roll bar and increased front camber. Also after driving down my favourite bump steer route I could not detect any adverse effects. It would be good to take the car on a track as there is no way on earth you can explore the limits of grip on the public highway!<br /><br />Right...... time to leave the suspension alone now!STRhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/05729074033045662061noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-420977588509125272.post-47393015144061133522010-04-21T15:19:00.005+01:002010-04-21T15:32:30.329+01:00Fitting the Sidescreens - Part 2<div><div><div><div><div><div><div><div><div><div>Time to mill down the leading edge of the sidescreens - acheived easilly with the Dremel Router attachement. You need to leave an "island" of lexan where the hinge goes:<img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5462596402161547682" style="DISPLAY: block; MARGIN: 0px auto 10px; WIDTH: 400px; CURSOR: hand; HEIGHT: 300px; TEXT-ALIGN: center" alt="" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/_ZRAVhFdqFSQ/S88KfFYqeaI/AAAAAAAAM18/T7jejCj3TPA/s400/IMG_0242.JPG" border="0" /></div><div></div><div>The rubber seal needs to then be trimmed to fit round the hinge positions:<img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5462597381210992370" style="DISPLAY: block; MARGIN: 0px auto 10px; WIDTH: 400px; CURSOR: hand; HEIGHT: 300px; TEXT-ALIGN: center" alt="" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/_ZRAVhFdqFSQ/S88LYEoPbvI/AAAAAAAAM2k/pas6E6zD-YU/s400/IMG_0247.JPG" border="0" /></div><div>Which it does quite nicely:<img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5462596411088845650" style="DISPLAY: block; MARGIN: 0px auto 10px; WIDTH: 400px; CURSOR: hand; HEIGHT: 300px; TEXT-ALIGN: center" alt="" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/_ZRAVhFdqFSQ/S88KfmpGO1I/AAAAAAAAM2E/Z_kS8iMFt1c/s400/IMG_0243.JPG" border="0" /></div></div></div></div></div></div>It was then a simple matter to fit the bottom rubber and fix the sidescreen into position:<img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5462596415861601330" style="DISPLAY: block; MARGIN: 0px auto 10px; WIDTH: 400px; CURSOR: hand; HEIGHT: 300px; TEXT-ALIGN: center" alt="" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/_ZRAVhFdqFSQ/S88Kf4bAtDI/AAAAAAAAM2M/R9cvGUTGKMM/s400/IMG_0244.JPG" border="0" />I was quite pleased that the rubber on the leading edge gave a good seal - even over the step by the screen bow:<img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5462596424060075506" style="DISPLAY: block; MARGIN: 0px auto 10px; WIDTH: 400px; CURSOR: hand; HEIGHT: 300px; TEXT-ALIGN: center" alt="" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/_ZRAVhFdqFSQ/S88KgW9rffI/AAAAAAAAM2U/wk8NSfzr988/s400/IMG_0245.JPG" border="0" /></div></div></div></div><br /><p>Time to peel off the protective film:<img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5462596432117806418" style="DISPLAY: block; MARGIN: 0px auto 10px; WIDTH: 400px; CURSOR: hand; HEIGHT: 300px; TEXT-ALIGN: center" alt="" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/_ZRAVhFdqFSQ/S88Kg0-ytVI/AAAAAAAAM2c/ciiB8d5gs7E/s400/IMG_0246.JPG" border="0" />Repeat for the other side and job done:<img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5462597390739678674" style="DISPLAY: block; MARGIN: 0px auto 10px; WIDTH: 400px; CURSOR: hand; HEIGHT: 300px; TEXT-ALIGN: center" alt="" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/_ZRAVhFdqFSQ/S88LYoIDpdI/AAAAAAAAM2s/nWSRwLrcQYo/s400/IMG_0248.JPG" border="0" /><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5462597407324940850" style="DISPLAY: block; MARGIN: 0px auto 10px; WIDTH: 400px; CURSOR: hand; HEIGHT: 300px; TEXT-ALIGN: center" alt="" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/_ZRAVhFdqFSQ/S88LZl6SqjI/AAAAAAAAM28/2WWaI5JAqlk/s400/IMG_0250.JPG" border="0" /><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5462597412333086082" style="DISPLAY: block; MARGIN: 0px auto 10px; WIDTH: 400px; CURSOR: hand; HEIGHT: 300px; TEXT-ALIGN: center" alt="" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/_ZRAVhFdqFSQ/S88LZ4kU5YI/AAAAAAAAM3E/wvmAV5-GUFM/s400/IMG_0251.JPG" border="0" />Went for a test drive - nice and draught free -although it wasn't raining so I couldn't spot any leaks.</p><p>However......... it is bloody noisy with the hood up. So much so I think you would need earplugs for anything over 45 minutes!</p><p>Hmmmmmm..................</p>STRhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/05729074033045662061noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-420977588509125272.post-36260470657486620212010-04-18T08:52:00.007+01:002010-04-18T09:16:27.835+01:00Fitting the Sidescreens - Part 1With the hood fitted it was time to tackle the <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_0">sidescreens</span>. I had got as far as fitting the "blank" drivers side screen:<img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5461384950659458706" style="DISPLAY: block; MARGIN: 0px auto 10px; WIDTH: 400px; CURSOR: hand; HEIGHT: 300px; TEXT-ALIGN: center" alt="" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/_ZRAVhFdqFSQ/S8q8rU24ppI/AAAAAAAAM1U/y6ps2wAdLQI/s400/IMG_0234.JPG" border="0" />The next step was to pull down the protective coating so I could mark the various features of the hood on the outside of the screen:<img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5461384960866250130" style="DISPLAY: block; MARGIN: 0px auto 10px; WIDTH: 400px; CURSOR: hand; HEIGHT: 300px; TEXT-ALIGN: center" alt="" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/_ZRAVhFdqFSQ/S8q8r64X7ZI/AAAAAAAAM1c/BQh3R_F_l7M/s400/IMG_0235.JPG" border="0" />Then it was out with the trusty jigsaw - to cut L<span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_1">exan</span> neatly you need a variable speed jigsaw a turn it right down to around 500 strokes per minute and use a <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_2">specia</span><span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_3">l plastics</span> blade - this will give you a nice clean cut with no melting of the edge:<img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5461384966430889554" style="DISPLAY: block; MARGIN: 0px auto 10px; WIDTH: 400px; CURSOR: hand; HEIGHT: 300px; TEXT-ALIGN: center" alt="" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/_ZRAVhFdqFSQ/S8q8sPnFllI/AAAAAAAAM1k/EDv5BcvgYGE/s400/IMG_0236.JPG" border="0" />And Voila!<img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5461384972222758786" style="DISPLAY: block; MARGIN: 0px auto 10px; WIDTH: 400px; CURSOR: hand; HEIGHT: 300px; TEXT-ALIGN: center" alt="" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/_ZRAVhFdqFSQ/S8q8slL-f4I/AAAAAAAAM1s/nGor5GA3fhw/s400/IMG_0237.JPG" border="0" /><span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_4">The next</span> job was to position the catch and cut the hole out. The holes is not round - more like an oval with two straight sides. Time for a new D<span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_5">remel</span> attachment - a mini router:<img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5461384977681189170" style="DISPLAY: block; MARGIN: 0px auto 10px; WIDTH: 400px; CURSOR: hand; HEIGHT: 300px; TEXT-ALIGN: center" alt="" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/_ZRAVhFdqFSQ/S8q8s5hXiTI/AAAAAAAAM10/y_B3bi36fS4/s400/IMG_0239.JPG" border="0" />Job Done. I'll also need this to mill down the leading edge of the <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_6">sidescreens</span>. I have left a bigger gap between the <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_7">sidescreen</span> and windscreen frame than normal as I am going to fit a rubber seal. However the smaller rubber seals won't fit the 5mm thick <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_8">Lexan</span>. I'll need to reduce the thickness of the leading edge down to around 3mm. Then I can fit the leading edge and lower edge r<span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_9">ubber</span> seals and it should be job done!STRhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/05729074033045662061noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-420977588509125272.post-16972848796145039052010-04-15T22:12:00.003+01:002010-04-15T22:57:08.645+01:00Hood Fitted!Being under strict instructions to free up the dining room table it was time to crack on. I finished <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_0">glueing</span> and trimming the returns and had to come up with a means of sealing the hood against the body???<br /><br /><div><div><div>During the trial fitting of the hood It was clear that the gap between the hood and the body was pretty small and uniform. So I decided to use domestic "p" shaped draught <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_1">excluder</span> (in a double row). May seem an odd choice but the beauty of it is that it is very soft and compresses very <span class="blsp-spelling-corrected" id="SPELLING_ERROR_2">easily</span> (unlike the majority of automotive seals) - it also sticks like you know what to a blanket! </div><div> </div><div>The only problem is that it only comes in brown or white:<img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5460479808899874130" style="DISPLAY: block; MARGIN: 0px auto 10px; WIDTH: 400px; CURSOR: hand; HEIGHT: 300px; TEXT-ALIGN: center" alt="" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/_ZRAVhFdqFSQ/S8eFdJCrfVI/AAAAAAAAM08/2rvWXMJrSl4/s400/IMG_0229.JPG" border="0" /></div><div></div><div>The colour is not really an issue as the gap is so small you can't see it.</div><br /><div></div><div>With the new hood pivot fitted it was time to fit the hood..... <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_3">sheeeeesh</span> - it needed some pulling to get the hood bows on - and that's not too easy either - need to learn the knack. After breaking a couple of fingers and plenty of <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_4">effin</span>' & <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_5">Jeffin</span> it was on:<img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5460479811463855682" style="DISPLAY: block; MARGIN: 0px auto 10px; WIDTH: 400px; CURSOR: hand; HEIGHT: 300px; TEXT-ALIGN: center" alt="" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/_ZRAVhFdqFSQ/S8eFdSl-vkI/AAAAAAAAM1E/eRym2NTRG9I/s400/IMG_0231.JPG" border="0" /></div><div><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5460479821197418786" style="DISPLAY: block; MARGIN: 0px auto 10px; WIDTH: 400px; CURSOR: hand; HEIGHT: 300px; TEXT-ALIGN: center" alt="" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/_ZRAVhFdqFSQ/S8eFd22pISI/AAAAAAAAM1M/-3rOFGAJnUk/s400/IMG_0232.JPG" border="0" /></div><div>Pretty pleased with it overall - it was a bit harder to tension and fit the hood bows than I expected but that's probably down to lack of practice . I'm gonna leave it up for a <span class="blsp-spelling-corrected" id="SPELLING_ERROR_6">few</span> days now for everything to settle into place.</div><div> </div><div>Now I can get on with the <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_7">sidescreens</span>.</div></div></div>STRhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/05729074033045662061noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-420977588509125272.post-79509169457946102102010-04-13T21:07:00.005+01:002010-04-13T23:37:49.550+01:00Not Fitting the Hood - Boat Stuff InsteadWhilst I'm waiting for a replacement Hood Frame Pivot from GD I took the opportunity to get some stuff done on the boat.<br /><br /><div><div><div>The original marine muffler was shot - it was in fact in several pieces!! So I designed a new one and we had it made up in stainless by a local guy. So this left the simple task of fitting it:<img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5459717636676756866" style="DISPLAY: block; MARGIN: 0px auto 10px; WIDTH: 400px; CURSOR: hand; HEIGHT: 300px; TEXT-ALIGN: center" alt="" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/_ZRAVhFdqFSQ/S8TQQ4QNpYI/AAAAAAAAM0k/haUvvYkW6Zw/s400/IMG_0226.JPG" border="0" /></div><div>It is more than just a big tube with four smaller tubes <span class="blsp-spelling-corrected" id="SPELLING_ERROR_0">coming</span> off it - each outlet is via a water siphon inside the main tube.</div><br /><div>The boat has had its <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_1">GRP</span> polished up and the trailer is being sprayed to match:<img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5459717657017078626" style="DISPLAY: block; MARGIN: 0px auto 10px; WIDTH: 400px; CURSOR: hand; HEIGHT: 300px; TEXT-ALIGN: center" alt="" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/_ZRAVhFdqFSQ/S8TQSEBuU2I/AAAAAAAAM00/MUsUv1pAaLE/s400/IMG_0228.JPG" border="0" /></div><div>Most of the re-upholstery has been done and just needs putting back in the boat. A replacement air cleaner needs to be fitted (I have a spare <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_2">Edelbrock</span> one which should fit on the H<span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_3">olley</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_4">carb</span> if I can find some 1/4" studding. There are some bits and pieces of electrics that need tidying:<img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5459717647149243250" style="DISPLAY: block; MARGIN: 0px auto 10px; WIDTH: 400px; CURSOR: hand; HEIGHT: 300px; TEXT-ALIGN: center" alt="" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/_ZRAVhFdqFSQ/S8TQRfRDG3I/AAAAAAAAM0s/zsqOJYwcdyM/s400/IMG_0227.JPG" border="0" />The battery is out and is currently connected to my O<span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_5">ptimate</span> - the plan is to put it in the water on Saturday and see if it starts - the boat not the battery! - <span class="blsp-spelling-corrected" id="SPELLING_ERROR_6">assuming</span> it all gets put back together in time. </div><div></div><div><span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_7">That'll</span> be another day <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_8">spent</span> not fitting the hood!</div></div></div>STRhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/05729074033045662061noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-420977588509125272.post-69608492714964009232010-04-11T18:34:00.004+01:002010-04-11T18:53:25.943+01:00Fitting the Hood - Part 6Time to see if it fits:<img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5458936296799485138" style="DISPLAY: block; MARGIN: 0px auto 10px; WIDTH: 400px; CURSOR: hand; HEIGHT: 300px; TEXT-ALIGN: center" alt="" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/_ZRAVhFdqFSQ/S8IJo6Y4PNI/AAAAAAAAM0E/HavTCRs84c4/s400/IMG_0221.JPG" border="0" /> <div><div><div><div></div><div>Well the simple answer is it doesn't! - whilst trying to fit the hood bows one of the hoop pivot knuckles snapped! - very peculiar?<img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5458936305176430290" style="DISPLAY: block; MARGIN: 0px auto 10px; WIDTH: 400px; CURSOR: hand; HEIGHT: 300px; TEXT-ALIGN: center" alt="" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/_ZRAVhFdqFSQ/S8IJpZmGRtI/AAAAAAAAM0M/PwTrM9EE4BY/s400/IMG_0225.JPG" border="0" /></div><div></div><div>So I'll have to get on to GD for a replacement. So I took the hoops out which allowed me to fit up the hood bows with no tension and mark out for driling the holes for the fivets to fix the hood bow catches:<img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5458936315102489730" style="DISPLAY: block; MARGIN: 0px auto 10px; WIDTH: 400px; CURSOR: hand; HEIGHT: 300px; TEXT-ALIGN: center" alt="" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/_ZRAVhFdqFSQ/S8IJp-kp7II/AAAAAAAAM0U/RB09ZchLBfg/s400/IMG_0222.JPG" border="0" /></div><div></div><div>Felling a bit dis-heartend I turned my attention to the sidescreesns. I got two pieces of Lexan polycarbonate off e-Bay for a reaonable price. After a bit of measuring and trimming I fixed the first one into place to see how it looks:<img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5458936322416594002" style="DISPLAY: block; MARGIN: 0px auto 10px; WIDTH: 400px; CURSOR: hand; HEIGHT: 300px; TEXT-ALIGN: center" alt="" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/_ZRAVhFdqFSQ/S8IJqZ0eTFI/AAAAAAAAM0c/7hmLRzB3WYM/s400/IMG_0223.JPG" border="0" /></div><div>It obviously needs to be trimmed down - but I need the hood fitted to transfer the required shape onto the Lexan. I'm departing a little from the GD method by fitting a rubber seal between the sidescreen and the screen pillar. More on that later.... it might be a faff too far??</div></div></div></div>STRhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/05729074033045662061noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-420977588509125272.post-20117538353687316022010-04-10T15:09:00.010+01:002010-04-10T21:10:12.710+01:00Fitting the Hood - Part 5<div><div><div><div><div><div><div><div><div><div>The hood has now taken up residence in the dining room ready for glueing the returns and trimming (I forgot to take enough photos, probably due to being high on evo-stick fumes, so I've included a couple from the build manual):<img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5458513144956088978" style="DISPLAY: block; MARGIN: 0px auto 10px; WIDTH: 400px; CURSOR: hand; HEIGHT: 300px; TEXT-ALIGN: center" alt="" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/_ZRAVhFdqFSQ/S8CIyO7ocpI/AAAAAAAAMy0/OdJFNJI0_24/s400/IMG_0216.JPG" border="0" /></div><div></div><div>I tackled the rear section first which was relatively straightforward just requiring the hood material to be mitred around the corners:<img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5458514488292387874" style="DISPLAY: block; MARGIN: 0px auto 10px; WIDTH: 400px; CURSOR: hand; HEIGHT: 300px; TEXT-ALIGN: center" alt="" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/_ZRAVhFdqFSQ/S8CKAbP9rCI/AAAAAAAAMzM/oW_w3jmvReo/s400/IMG_0217.JPG" border="0" /></div></div></div></div></div><p>So this leaves the hood bows at the front to do. Here you need to trim the hood material to clear the fixing lugs on the hood bows like this:<img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5458515850015384066" style="DISPLAY: block; MARGIN: 0px auto 10px; WIDTH: 400px; CURSOR: hand; HEIGHT: 300px; TEXT-ALIGN: center" alt="" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/_ZRAVhFdqFSQ/S8CLPsEBogI/AAAAAAAAMzU/REDNJEXpCzU/s400/DSCN1116.jpg" border="0" /></p><p>The hood material is bonded to the inner face of the front edge and the underside of the top face. I sprayed both the hood material and the hood bows for a good bond:<img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5458513156914285746" style="DISPLAY: block; MARGIN: 0px auto 10px; WIDTH: 400px; CURSOR: hand; HEIGHT: 300px; TEXT-ALIGN: center" alt="" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/_ZRAVhFdqFSQ/S8CIy7esDLI/AAAAAAAAMzE/WfD1L4rPkwc/s400/IMG_0218.JPG" border="0" /></p></div></div>The surplus material can be trimmed off once the glue has had a while to cure: <img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5458545551652006146" style="DISPLAY: block; MARGIN: 0px auto 10px; WIDTH: 400px; CURSOR: hand; HEIGHT: 300px; TEXT-ALIGN: center" alt="" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/_ZRAVhFdqFSQ/S8CmQjSBqQI/AAAAAAAAMz0/wuQBrOMMH8s/s400/IMG_0219.JPG" border="0" /></div></div></div>This just leaves the two corners to be returned, glued and trimmed:<img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5458545540838794130" style="DISPLAY: block; MARGIN: 0px auto 10px; WIDTH: 400px; CURSOR: hand; HEIGHT: 300px; TEXT-ALIGN: center" alt="" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/_ZRAVhFdqFSQ/S8CmP6_9I5I/AAAAAAAAMzk/wwKQnbzt0z4/s400/DSCN1121.jpg" border="0" /><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5458545545434313954" style="DISPLAY: block; MARGIN: 0px auto 10px; WIDTH: 400px; CURSOR: hand; HEIGHT: 300px; TEXT-ALIGN: center" alt="" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/_ZRAVhFdqFSQ/S8CmQMHnNOI/AAAAAAAAMzs/9t5-Fg-16WI/s400/DSCN1122.jpg" border="0" />So time to leave everything to cure a bit more overnight before a trial fit tomorrow to fit the hood bow catches and start to figure out the sidescreens: <img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5458603434213292658" style="DISPLAY: block; MARGIN: 0px auto 10px; WIDTH: 400px; CURSOR: hand; HEIGHT: 300px; TEXT-ALIGN: center" alt="" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/_ZRAVhFdqFSQ/S8Da5woCunI/AAAAAAAAMz8/ibXZBnuxcQ4/s400/IMG_0220.JPG" border="0" />STRhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/05729074033045662061noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-420977588509125272.post-7343152200151672092010-04-06T16:56:00.006+01:002010-04-06T19:51:36.453+01:00Back on The RoadHaving just recieved my new tax disc I decided to take an extra days Easter holiday to get the car back on the road. I had become distracted with fitting the hood and with not a lot of spare time I never finished off the odd jobs that were outstanding.<br /><br /><div><div></div><div>So with the hood safely tucked up in the spare bedroom awaiting trimming and bonding of the edges I bled the front brakes - and managed to get a little bit more air out of the NSF calliper. I checked the revised suspension settings with the wheels back on. Finished checking all the suspension fasteners, checked / adjusted the front wheel bearings and then it was time to start.</div><br /><div>I realised that the engine hadn't been started for 3 and a half months!!! so five pumps on the throttle (after priming the fuel bowls in the <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_0">carb</span> - I use the "start" position on the Key to provide a fuel pump over-ride for this very reason) pushed the button and it roared back into life with no fuss.</div><br /><div>Went for a quick blast and it was like <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_1">being</span> re-united with an old friend. I then started to feel a bit guilty about the 3 months worth of finger marks and dust so it was time for a wash and vacuum:<img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5457057869011755362" style="DISPLAY: block; MARGIN: 0px auto 10px; WIDTH: 400px; CURSOR: hand; HEIGHT: 300px; TEXT-ALIGN: center" alt="" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/_ZRAVhFdqFSQ/S7tdOBkyIWI/AAAAAAAAMyk/V9G8tmwL478/s400/IMG_0214.JPG" border="0" /></div></div><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5457057884061254066" style="DISPLAY: block; MARGIN: 0px auto 10px; WIDTH: 400px; CURSOR: hand; HEIGHT: 300px; TEXT-ALIGN: center" alt="" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/_ZRAVhFdqFSQ/S7tdO5o3QbI/AAAAAAAAMys/hJoc5zz7prg/s400/IMG_0215.JPG" border="0" />If the forecast is OK tomorrow morning then I may well go to work in it and get the tracking checked at lunchtime - the OSF will be toeing out a little I suspect after the camber alterations I made.STRhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/05729074033045662061noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-420977588509125272.post-25899265351825705762010-04-02T16:15:00.010+01:002010-04-02T23:41:32.161+01:00Fitting the Hood - Part 4Today's the day..... Glue Day!!<br /><div><div><div><div><br /><div></div><div>I was up early to get the heater on in the Garage - it was 4 degrees this morning. I had left the hood in the bathroom overnight as this is the warmest room of the house. After an hour or so the garage was up to a toasty 20 degrees.</div><div></div><br /><div>I draped the hood into position and placed an electric fan heater on the transmission tunnel to warm he hood up some more:<img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5455560540903330354" style="DISPLAY: block; MARGIN: 0px auto 10px; WIDTH: 400px; CURSOR: hand; HEIGHT: 300px; TEXT-ALIGN: center" alt="" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/_ZRAVhFdqFSQ/S7YLaDsuUjI/AAAAAAAAMw0/0zClQbwfW5E/s400/IMG_0199.JPG" border="0" /></div><div></div><div>The first task was to <span class="blsp-spelling-corrected" id="SPELLING_ERROR_0">manoeuvre</span> the hood into position - taking care to ensure it was lined up equally against the marks on the hood bows. This involved a bit of mucking around taping and <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_1">un</span>-taping the hood to the windscreen and getting a feel for the tension at the back of the hood when pulling it:<img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5455560550687991394" style="DISPLAY: block; MARGIN: 0px auto 10px; WIDTH: 400px; CURSOR: hand; HEIGHT: 300px; TEXT-ALIGN: center" alt="" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/_ZRAVhFdqFSQ/S7YLaoJkZmI/AAAAAAAAMw8/6d4fNdLvRDs/s400/IMG_0200.JPG" border="0" /></div><div></div><div><span class="blsp-spelling-corrected" id="SPELLING_ERROR_2">Eventually</span> we were ready to start. Following the advice from Paul at GD I sprayed <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_3">evostick</span> onto the first 6 inches of each <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_4">GRP</span> moulding. You only need to <span class="blsp-spelling-corrected" id="SPELLING_ERROR_5">spray</span> the glue to the <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_6">GRP</span> - once you let it tack off it gets a very good hold onto the hood lining:<img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5455560586012979922" style="DISPLAY: block; MARGIN: 0px auto 10px; WIDTH: 400px; CURSOR: hand; HEIGHT: 300px; TEXT-ALIGN: center" alt="" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/_ZRAVhFdqFSQ/S7YLcrvs8tI/AAAAAAAAMxU/mWIR7ohGnK8/s400/IMG_0203.JPG" border="0" /></div></div></div></div></div>I left the glue for 5 minutes and pulled the hood taught and affixed it to the moulding - lining up the chalk centre-line with the middle of the gap:<br /><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5455560559669524050" style="DISPLAY: block; MARGIN: 0px auto 10px; WIDTH: 400px; CURSOR: hand; HEIGHT: 300px; TEXT-ALIGN: center" alt="" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/_ZRAVhFdqFSQ/S7YLbJm7tlI/AAAAAAAAMxE/ycm5S8llhZM/s400/IMG_0201.JPG" border="0" /><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5455562001468788258" style="DISPLAY: block; MARGIN: 0px auto 10px; WIDTH: 400px; CURSOR: hand; HEIGHT: 300px; TEXT-ALIGN: center" alt="" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/_ZRAVhFdqFSQ/S7YMvEuqjiI/AAAAAAAAMxc/DRKDuGPeQR0/s400/IMG_0204.JPG" border="0" />A good measure of the correct tension is when the <span class="blsp-spelling-corrected" id="SPELLING_ERROR_7">window</span> surround trim is within 5mm of the <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_8">GRP</span> section at the centre of the car:<img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5455562004563015538" style="DISPLAY: block; MARGIN: 0px auto 10px; WIDTH: 400px; CURSOR: hand; HEIGHT: 300px; TEXT-ALIGN: center" alt="" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/_ZRAVhFdqFSQ/S7YMvQQYt3I/AAAAAAAAMxk/mjmSn37hH04/s400/IMG_0205.JPG" border="0" />You can then work the hood material round to each door shut and check everything is <span class="blsp-spelling-corrected" id="SPELLING_ERROR_9">symmetrical</span>. In my case it was, give or take a couple of mill, so I sprayed the remainder of the <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_10">GRP</span>, <span class="blsp-spelling-corrected" id="SPELLING_ERROR_11">tensioned</span> and bonded the rest of the hood. For ease as I was working on my own I split each of the remaining sections into 2 more <span class="blsp-spelling-corrected" id="SPELLING_ERROR_12">manageable</span> chunks:<img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5455562009632401154" style="DISPLAY: block; MARGIN: 0px auto 10px; WIDTH: 400px; CURSOR: hand; HEIGHT: 300px; TEXT-ALIGN: center" alt="" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/_ZRAVhFdqFSQ/S7YMvjJBZwI/AAAAAAAAMxs/TAXILhhBSsQ/s400/IMG_0206.JPG" border="0" /> <p>The above photo was half way round the one side. The following photo is after all the back section has been glued. You will see a few creases developing on the rear quarters (<span class="blsp-spelling-corrected" id="SPELLING_ERROR_13">partly</span> due to the tape on the screen slipping!) - but these will pull out once the final tension is applied to the front. <img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5455562018155584898" style="DISPLAY: block; MARGIN: 0px auto 10px; WIDTH: 400px; CURSOR: hand; HEIGHT: 300px; TEXT-ALIGN: center" alt="" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/_ZRAVhFdqFSQ/S7YMwC5G3YI/AAAAAAAAMx0/Azgvn9ta_YA/s400/IMG_0207.JPG" border="0" />I had some dinner to let the glue go off a bit before tackling the front - doesn't take long as the garage was getting quite warm by now!!</p><p>I removed the tape from the front and <span class="blsp-spelling-corrected" id="SPELLING_ERROR_14">re-tensioned</span> the hood to get all the creases out - this was easy as the hood was quite soft by now. I taped the hood back down to the screen and marked the taped where it passed over the top edge of the hood bow - this would let me know how far to pull for the correct tension when gluing.</p><p>I then removed the tape from one half of the screen and sprayed the <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_15">evostick</span> on the <span class="blsp-spelling-corrected" id="SPELLING_ERROR_16">front</span> face of the hood bow - don't glue the top face as this is not the natural line of the hood:<img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5455562032246341554" style="DISPLAY: block; MARGIN: 0px auto 10px; WIDTH: 400px; CURSOR: hand; HEIGHT: 300px; TEXT-ALIGN: center" alt="" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/_ZRAVhFdqFSQ/S7YMw3Ymv7I/AAAAAAAAMx8/z-RQBzKkMMg/s400/IMG_0208.JPG" border="0" /></p><p>And then simply repeat for the other side. After which I went mad with the Duck Tape just to take the pressure off the freshly bonded glue joint:<img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5455566868475849138" style="DISPLAY: block; MARGIN: 0px auto 10px; WIDTH: 400px; CURSOR: hand; HEIGHT: 300px; TEXT-ALIGN: center" alt="" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/_ZRAVhFdqFSQ/S7YRKXvkqbI/AAAAAAAAMyE/LmL7IKK0eZo/s400/IMG_0209.JPG" border="0" /></p><p>And there we have it:<img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5455566878020217330" style="DISPLAY: block; MARGIN: 0px auto 10px; WIDTH: 400px; CURSOR: hand; HEIGHT: 300px; TEXT-ALIGN: center" alt="" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/_ZRAVhFdqFSQ/S7YRK7TIKfI/AAAAAAAAMyM/z1zAbjZA6tc/s400/IMG_0210.JPG" border="0" /></p><p>I am quite pleased with the shape and lines of the hood and the absence of wrinkles! The hood ended up about 5mm off centre over the screen but I didn't think it was worth <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_17">un</span>-gluing - <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_18">particulalry</span> not just to end up with it 5mm out the other way!</p><p>It also looks quite good from the inside:<img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5455566882158206802" style="DISPLAY: block; MARGIN: 0px auto 10px; WIDTH: 400px; CURSOR: hand; HEIGHT: 300px; TEXT-ALIGN: center" alt="" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/_ZRAVhFdqFSQ/S7YRLKts31I/AAAAAAAAMyU/Oda0dE0RlkQ/s400/IMG_0211.JPG" border="0" /></p>After about an hour I loosened the hood bows and let the front part of the hood hang to <span class="blsp-spelling-corrected" id="SPELLING_ERROR_19">relieve</span> the <span class="blsp-spelling-corrected" id="SPELLING_ERROR_20">stress</span> on all the glued joints. I'm away for the rest of the <span class="blsp-spelling-corrected" id="SPELLING_ERROR_21">Easter</span> weekend so this will give the joints plenty of time to cure before I start the process of trimming / tidying the edges. (Since doing this I've now removed the entire hood and put it on the spared bed so the glue can cure without any extreme changes in temerature).<img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5455566889440733794" style="DISPLAY: block; MARGIN: 0px auto 10px; WIDTH: 400px; CURSOR: hand; HEIGHT: 300px; TEXT-ALIGN: center" alt="" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/_ZRAVhFdqFSQ/S7YRLl1_amI/AAAAAAAAMyc/D69VpMQ_-YU/s400/IMG_0212.JPG" border="0" />Top Tip for fitting the Hood....... do it in the middle of an August heatwave - not when there's frost outside - it'll save you a fortune on your electricity bill!STRhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/05729074033045662061noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-420977588509125272.post-36887644996561442642010-03-29T18:59:00.013+01:002010-03-29T22:02:33.727+01:00Fitting the Hood - Part 3Not a lot of free time at the moment - hence onto Part 3 already and the hood is nowhere near being fitted!<br /><br />I managed to paint the inside faces of the GRP moulding the other night so having got some M5 stainless dome nuts I fixed the pivot brackets to the GRP moulding (bedded on a layer of Sikaflex to allow for surface undulations in the GRP): <img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5454160212816280690" style="DISPLAY: block; MARGIN: 0px auto 10px; WIDTH: 400px; CURSOR: hand; HEIGHT: 300px; TEXT-ALIGN: center" alt="" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/_ZRAVhFdqFSQ/S7ER0PD7vHI/AAAAAAAAMv8/lao-tBGH4eY/s400/IMG_0185.JPG" border="0" />I also got some M8 dome nuts so I finished off the undersides of the moulding fixings:<img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5454161979677154290" style="DISPLAY: block; MARGIN: 0px auto 10px; WIDTH: 400px; CURSOR: hand; HEIGHT: 300px; TEXT-ALIGN: center" alt="" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/_ZRAVhFdqFSQ/S7ETbFIZG_I/AAAAAAAAMwc/rvCQ9OOoTBo/s400/IMG_0191.JPG" border="0" />Yet another package to open was some m5 thumbscrews for fixing the GRP moulding to the body:<img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5454161960429284882" style="DISPLAY: block; MARGIN: 0px auto 10px; WIDTH: 400px; CURSOR: hand; HEIGHT: 300px; TEXT-ALIGN: center" alt="" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/_ZRAVhFdqFSQ/S7ETZ9bV7hI/AAAAAAAAMwE/vkZJNzTCM2A/s400/IMG_0187.JPG" border="0" /> Just the job and small enough to clear the angled flange around the back over the boot yet big enough to get hold of easily with your fingers: <img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5454161966797095970" style="DISPLAY: block; MARGIN: 0px auto 10px; WIDTH: 400px; CURSOR: hand; HEIGHT: 300px; TEXT-ALIGN: center" alt="" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/_ZRAVhFdqFSQ/S7ETaVJjBCI/AAAAAAAAMwM/3AbeEcJZzXo/s400/IMG_0188.JPG" border="0" />So masking tape was applied to the bottom of the moulding and it was bolted into place ready for fitting the hood. The hoops and pivots where also fitted: <img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5454161975428224514" style="DISPLAY: block; MARGIN: 0px auto 10px; WIDTH: 400px; CURSOR: hand; HEIGHT: 300px; TEXT-ALIGN: center" alt="" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/_ZRAVhFdqFSQ/S7ETa1TXlgI/AAAAAAAAMwU/XCQLkIw_OAE/s400/IMG_0189.JPG" border="0" />Next I masked off the top of the windscreen and fitted the front hood bows holding them in place with masking tape around the lower end: <img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5454161988654964258" style="DISPLAY: block; MARGIN: 0px auto 10px; WIDTH: 400px; CURSOR: hand; HEIGHT: 300px; TEXT-ALIGN: center" alt="" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/_ZRAVhFdqFSQ/S7ETbmk3niI/AAAAAAAAMwk/YMtWWr8HJ68/s400/IMG_0192.JPG" border="0" />I also marked up the sides of the bows in 10mm increments from the bottom edge of the bow - this will help to centralise the hood over the screen: <img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5454162435631734274" style="DISPLAY: block; MARGIN: 0px auto 10px; WIDTH: 400px; CURSOR: hand; HEIGHT: 300px; TEXT-ALIGN: center" alt="" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/_ZRAVhFdqFSQ/S7ET1nsb3gI/AAAAAAAAMws/aXSP5YDo5ro/s400/IMG_0198.JPG" border="0" />Rapidly approaching the time for glueing!! But first I need to get a few heaters to get the garage nice and warm - if not hot - so the hood will be nice and supple. Problem is the temperature is dropping here and snow is forecast for the next couple of days!<br /><br />Better get some BIG heaters then!<br /><br />Planning on Friday being the day for glueing.STRhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/05729074033045662061noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-420977588509125272.post-21583610281757659252010-03-23T12:31:00.008+00:002010-03-28T18:32:45.460+01:00Fitting the Hood - Part 2The next step was to trim the <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_0">GRP</span> Mouldings down to match the edge of the door opening:<br />
<div><div><a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/_ZRAVhFdqFSQ/S6i3PrjqeEI/AAAAAAAAMs4/cm7CLTWldUg/s1600-h/IMG_0167.JPG"><img alt="" border="0" height="240" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5451808828950214722" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/_ZRAVhFdqFSQ/S6i3PrjqeEI/AAAAAAAAMs4/cm7CLTWldUg/s640/IMG_0167.JPG" style="display: block; height: 240px; margin: 0px auto 10px; text-align: center; width: 320px;" width="320" /></a><img alt="" border="0" height="240" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5451808817532611218" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/_ZRAVhFdqFSQ/S6i3PBBfqpI/AAAAAAAAMsw/M6CKLzV6pkE/s400/IMG_0168.JPG" style="display: block; height: 240px; margin: 0px auto 10px; text-align: center; width: 320px;" width="320" />I may yet still need to trim the vertical flange back - depends on how the <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_1">sidescreen</span> closes. The folding hood frames have a pivot and the bottom which is supposed to be bolted to the <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_2">GRP</span> Moulding:<br />
<div><a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/_ZRAVhFdqFSQ/S6i3OpIwniI/AAAAAAAAMso/skq0W2Amr6Y/s1600-h/IMG_0170.JPG"><img alt="" border="0" height="240" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5451808811120631330" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/_ZRAVhFdqFSQ/S6i3OpIwniI/AAAAAAAAMso/skq0W2Amr6Y/s400/IMG_0170.JPG" style="display: block; height: 240px; margin: 0px auto 10px; text-align: center; width: 320px;" width="320" /></a> The fixing is a single M5 countersunk bolt. I didn't think this would be strong enough to stand up to a few years of abuse so I decided to modify things slightly. I found that the pivot would fit snugly inside a <span class="blsp-spelling-corrected" id="SPELLING_ERROR_3">wardrobe</span> rail support bracket:<br />
<div><a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/_ZRAVhFdqFSQ/S6i3OcyVIJI/AAAAAAAAMsg/buGt-UomboM/s1600-h/IMG_0172.JPG"><img alt="" border="0" height="240" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5451808807805329554" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/_ZRAVhFdqFSQ/S6i3OcyVIJI/AAAAAAAAMsg/buGt-UomboM/s400/IMG_0172.JPG" style="display: block; height: 240px; margin: 0px auto 10px; text-align: center; width: 320px;" width="320" /></a> This was positioned on the <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_4">GRP</span> moulding and two countersunk holes drilled:<img alt="" border="0" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5451807618759536594" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/_ZRAVhFdqFSQ/S6i2JPPuL9I/AAAAAAAAMsQ/cAoA04wLkXw/s320/IMG_0179.JPG" style="cursor: hand; display: block; height: 320px; margin: 0px auto 10px; text-align: center; width: 240px;" />This puts the pivot about 4-5mm further back than the position recommended by GD because I allowed a bit of edge distance to the outside hole:<img alt="" border="0" height="240" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5451807624045186434" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/_ZRAVhFdqFSQ/S6i2Ji76zYI/AAAAAAAAMsY/zMGk3Ry2Q0c/s400/IMG_0177.JPG" style="display: block; height: 240px; margin: 0px auto 10px; text-align: center; width: 320px;" width="320" />The final fitting will have shorter stainless bolts finished off with a dome nut. I will also "butter" the underside of the bracket with <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_5">sikaflex</span> to help take up any slight surface variations. I think I'll also drill the socket and fit a self tapper just to hold the pivot in place (or possibly araldite it into place as there is no need to remove the pivot form the Moulding) although I doubt it will go anywhere due to the tension in the hood. Now it was <span class="blsp-spelling-corrected" id="SPELLING_ERROR_6">time</span> to re-fit the mouldings and fit the hood frames: </div><div><div><div><a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/_ZRAVhFdqFSQ/S6i2I9F9nRI/AAAAAAAAMsI/vsfUmA2Ndhs/s1600-h/IMG_0180.JPG"><img alt="" border="0" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5451807613886766354" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/_ZRAVhFdqFSQ/S6i2I9F9nRI/AAAAAAAAMsI/vsfUmA2Ndhs/s320/IMG_0180.JPG" style="cursor: hand; display: block; height: 240px; margin: 0px auto 10px; text-align: center; width: 320px;" /></a> As you can see they fold up quite neatly. The reason behind fitting the folding hood is the intention to go touring. This way you can carry the hood folded down on the car giving some precious extra boot space. Plus if it looks like rain you can fit the hood before leaving and it will only take a very short time to fit should it start to rain.</div><br />
<div>Temptation got the better of me so I draped the hood over the frames and screen to see what it would like:<br />
<div><div><a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/_ZRAVhFdqFSQ/S6i2ITPgY0I/AAAAAAAAMsA/DFM5_uG8Dp8/s1600-h/IMG_0181.JPG"><img alt="" border="0" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5451807602652504898" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/_ZRAVhFdqFSQ/S6i2ITPgY0I/AAAAAAAAMsA/DFM5_uG8Dp8/s320/IMG_0181.JPG" style="cursor: hand; display: block; height: 240px; margin: 0px auto 10px; text-align: center; width: 320px;" /></a> I think it makes the car look more "vintage".<br />
<div><a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/_ZRAVhFdqFSQ/S6i2HzkgNiI/AAAAAAAAMr4/jBW129cydFE/s1600-h/IMG_0182.JPG"><img alt="" border="0" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5451807594150639138" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/_ZRAVhFdqFSQ/S6i2HzkgNiI/AAAAAAAAMr4/jBW129cydFE/s320/IMG_0182.JPG" style="cursor: hand; display: block; height: 240px; margin: 0px auto 10px; text-align: center; width: 320px;" /></a> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_7">Hmmmmmm</span>........cosy. </div><div></div><div>The last job for today was to file and sand the mouldings to get rid of any sharp edges and then prime them ready for painting on the inside. I did <span class="blsp-spelling-corrected" id="SPELLING_ERROR_8">think of</span> trimming them but decided it was going to be too awkward.</div><div><img alt="" border="0" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5451869245650851250" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/_ZRAVhFdqFSQ/S6juMZTlVbI/AAAAAAAAMtA/HaDqrFQjhNM/s320/IMG_0183.JPG" style="cursor: hand; display: block; height: 240px; margin: 0px auto 10px; text-align: center; width: 320px;" /></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div>STRhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/05729074033045662061noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-420977588509125272.post-72397094813740572612010-03-22T19:08:00.007+00:002010-03-22T19:32:03.280+00:00Fitting the Hood - Part 1Went down to GD to pick up my hood bit and pieces on Saturday Morning. But as I had to work Saturday Night / Sunday Morning I never got a chance to start!<br /><div><br /><div><div><div><div></div><div>The first task is to take the <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_0">GRP</span> moulding and file the moulding pips down on the bottom - these mark the fixing hole centres. Mark the centres - check for symmetry then drill 6mm holes for the M5 bolts - (leaves a l<span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_1">ittle</span> tolerance). Stick some masking tape to the underside of the moulding (to prevent <span class="blsp-spelling-corrected" id="SPELLING_ERROR_2">marking</span> the body) and offer up to body lining it up with the doors and taping into position:<img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5451538877368511250" style="DISPLAY: block; MARGIN: 0px auto 10px; WIDTH: 320px; CURSOR: hand; HEIGHT: 240px; TEXT-ALIGN: center" alt="" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/_ZRAVhFdqFSQ/S6fBubjIKxI/AAAAAAAAMqw/zO1SOUurH4M/s320/IMG_0155.JPG" border="0" /></div><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5451538885126339570" style="DISPLAY: block; MARGIN: 0px auto 10px; WIDTH: 320px; CURSOR: hand; HEIGHT: 240px; TEXT-ALIGN: center" alt="" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/_ZRAVhFdqFSQ/S6fBu4cvO_I/AAAAAAAAMq4/AwGugQLhJ20/s320/IMG_0156.JPG" border="0" /> <div></div><div>You can then drill through into the body with the 6mm drill. Remove the moulding and open the holes up in the body with a 8mm drill for the fixing inserts. You then end up with 8 nice holes in body! <img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5451542077999467058" style="DISPLAY: block; MARGIN: 0px auto 10px; WIDTH: 320px; CURSOR: hand; HEIGHT: 240px; TEXT-ALIGN: center" alt="" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/_ZRAVhFdqFSQ/S6fEou1AyjI/AAAAAAAAMrw/7WvzkRTv-Ys/s320/IMG_0157.JPG" border="0" /></div><div>Put the stainless inserts in (after a bit of a polish) and <span class="blsp-spelling-corrected" id="SPELLING_ERROR_3">tighten</span> up. The inserts are a top hat m8 bolt with an m5 tapping down the middle. They are fixed in place with a plain nut, spring <span class="blsp-spelling-corrected" id="SPELLING_ERROR_4">washer</span> and body washer:<img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5451538901381609906" style="DISPLAY: block; MARGIN: 0px auto 10px; WIDTH: 320px; CURSOR: hand; HEIGHT: 240px; TEXT-ALIGN: center" alt="" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/_ZRAVhFdqFSQ/S6fBv1AS-bI/AAAAAAAAMrI/dVTmDaZSUgw/s320/IMG_0159.JPG" border="0" /></div><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5451538906434910482" style="DISPLAY: block; MARGIN: 0px auto 10px; WIDTH: 320px; CURSOR: hand; HEIGHT: 240px; TEXT-ALIGN: center" alt="" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/_ZRAVhFdqFSQ/S6fBwH1GORI/AAAAAAAAMrQ/J118gP2eEKQ/s320/IMG_0161.JPG" border="0" /><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5451539857246024450" style="DISPLAY: block; MARGIN: 0px auto 10px; WIDTH: 320px; CURSOR: hand; HEIGHT: 240px; TEXT-ALIGN: center" alt="" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/_ZRAVhFdqFSQ/S6fCnd4IcwI/AAAAAAAAMrY/Dq-iQHcHhUY/s320/IMG_0164.JPG" border="0" /> <div></div><div>I'm going to get some acorn nuts to <span class="blsp-spelling-corrected" id="SPELLING_ERROR_5">finish</span> them off underneath to prevent any water getting into the boot when the hood is not on.</div><div></div><br /><div>The next job is to cut the <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_6">GRP</span> moulding in half and then trim 25mm of each end (same as 50mm out of the middle) with the ends cut back at 45 degrees. This is to allow the hood to fold up for storage.<img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5451539873965331570" style="DISPLAY: block; MARGIN: 0px auto 10px; WIDTH: 320px; CURSOR: hand; HEIGHT: 240px; TEXT-ALIGN: center" alt="" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/_ZRAVhFdqFSQ/S6fCocKU1HI/AAAAAAAAMro/MrKI4MhIXEU/s320/IMG_0166.JPG" border="0" /></div><div></div><div>I then bolted the two mouldings into place <span class="blsp-spelling-corrected" id="SPELLING_ERROR_7">temporarily</span> with some M5 bolts (I have ordered some M5 thumbscrews for a proper job) stood back and admired my <span class="blsp-spelling-corrected" id="SPELLING_ERROR_8">handiwork</span>.<img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5451539863933130946" style="DISPLAY: block; MARGIN: 0px auto 10px; WIDTH: 320px; CURSOR: hand; HEIGHT: 240px; TEXT-ALIGN: center" alt="" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/_ZRAVhFdqFSQ/S6fCn2ydmMI/AAAAAAAAMrg/LIpsiuolxO4/s320/IMG_0165.JPG" border="0" /></div><div>Next step will be the folding hood hoops tomorrow hopefully.</div></div></div></div></div>STRhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/05729074033045662061noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-420977588509125272.post-5744989374827829002010-03-09T21:08:00.004+00:002010-03-09T21:24:17.929+00:00Uh.Oh...... Another Distraction!<div><div><div><div><div>Well... my mate Dave has gone and bought hinslef a ski boat - a 1992 Mastercraft. It has an Indmar Ford V8 - looks like it's based on a 351 Cleveland. It needs a bit of TLC but has the potential to be a very nice boat indeed. Engine needs a little work mainly the ancillaries, hoses and wiring plus the exhaust / muffler is shot and needs repiars - but it shouldn't take much to get it in the water and running. Then we can see what else needs doing.<img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5446747136962009618" style="DISPLAY: block; MARGIN: 0px auto 10px; WIDTH: 320px; CURSOR: hand; HEIGHT: 240px; TEXT-ALIGN: center" alt="" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/_ZRAVhFdqFSQ/S5a7qbf_GhI/AAAAAAAAMqI/nFrFA9S3LVg/s320/IMG_0058.JPG" border="0" /></div><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5446747146165173730" style="DISPLAY: block; MARGIN: 0px auto 10px; WIDTH: 320px; CURSOR: hand; HEIGHT: 240px; TEXT-ALIGN: center" alt="" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/_ZRAVhFdqFSQ/S5a7q9yMPeI/AAAAAAAAMqQ/2bLYUKr-Zns/s320/IMG_0062.JPG" border="0" /><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5446747155049794226" style="DISPLAY: block; MARGIN: 0px auto 10px; WIDTH: 320px; CURSOR: hand; HEIGHT: 240px; TEXT-ALIGN: center" alt="" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/_ZRAVhFdqFSQ/S5a7re4cyrI/AAAAAAAAMqY/GKiVp_ESc50/s320/IMG_0055.JPG" border="0" /><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5446747156115845186" style="DISPLAY: block; MARGIN: 0px auto 10px; WIDTH: 320px; CURSOR: hand; HEIGHT: 240px; TEXT-ALIGN: center" alt="" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/_ZRAVhFdqFSQ/S5a7ri2ncEI/AAAAAAAAMqg/81GHbD1SYcY/s320/IMG_0056.JPG" border="0" /><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5446747173190476834" style="DISPLAY: block; MARGIN: 0px auto 10px; WIDTH: 320px; CURSOR: hand; HEIGHT: 240px; TEXT-ALIGN: center" alt="" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/_ZRAVhFdqFSQ/S5a7sidhpCI/AAAAAAAAMqo/D4gTENYM6zY/s320/IMG_0057.JPG" border="0" /> <div></div><div>Watch this space................</div></div></div></div></div>STRhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/05729074033045662061noreply@blogger.com2tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-420977588509125272.post-50292177427924351912010-03-07T13:16:00.002+00:002010-03-07T13:18:45.618+00:00Nearly didn't Make it Back from the Alps......<a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/_ZRAVhFdqFSQ/S5OnjJtAhTI/AAAAAAAAMqA/YiPrBlavgx4/s1600-h/IMG_0015.JPG"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5445880596763018546" style="DISPLAY: block; MARGIN: 0px auto 10px; WIDTH: 320px; CURSOR: hand; HEIGHT: 240px; TEXT-ALIGN: center" alt="" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/_ZRAVhFdqFSQ/S5OnjJtAhTI/AAAAAAAAMqA/YiPrBlavgx4/s320/IMG_0015.JPG" border="0" /></a> ...... now that's what you call "whiteout".<br /><br />Normal service will be resumed shortly.STRhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/05729074033045662061noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-420977588509125272.post-10185540247812788202010-02-21T11:43:00.005+00:002010-02-21T11:55:52.516+00:00Cleaning the WheelsIt is -2 degrees today and I've just spent the morning outside cleaning the wheels and polishing the rims and spinners - what a ball-ache it was with all the nooks and crannies on the <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_0">Halibrands</span>. Still it was much easier to do with the wheels off the car.<br /><br />I went for the clear anodised finish on the rims and whilst it may not <span class="blsp-spelling-corrected" id="SPELLING_ERROR_1">give</span> the shiniest of shiny finishes it does seem <span class="blsp-spelling-corrected" id="SPELLING_ERROR_2">to have</span> protected them and made them easier to clean. The rims were finished off with the polish supplied by image with the wheels - which interestingly looks like, smells like, applies like and buffs off like Auto <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_3">Glym</span> Super Resin Polish!<br /><br />I've put the back wheels back on(after making sure I had not forgotten to grease anything) but left the fronts off as I still need to check the front wheel bearings and callipers.<br /><br /><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5440661561149697778" style="DISPLAY: block; MARGIN: 0px auto 10px; WIDTH: 320px; CURSOR: hand; HEIGHT: 240px; TEXT-ALIGN: center" alt="" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/_ZRAVhFdqFSQ/S4Ec3S9zLvI/AAAAAAAAMpY/IroqVAWAvgQ/s320/IMG_2769.JPG" border="0" /><br />I'm too cold to be bothered to do <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_4">anything</span> else today!STRhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/05729074033045662061noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-420977588509125272.post-62607658681302989772010-02-20T16:15:00.004+00:002010-02-21T11:43:52.940+00:00Sat Nav...... In a Cobra????Over the last few years I have become accustomed to using Sat <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_0">Nav</span>. And with the desire to travel abroad in the Cob - combined with my Wife's poor <span class="blsp-spelling-corrected" id="SPELLING_ERROR_1">navigational</span> skills I had been thinking about how to mount my Sat <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_2">Nav</span> in the Cobra. I had managed to conclude that the normal windscreen mounting brackets were not going to work and also that the unit needed to mounted low down to cut down on glare with having no roof. I hadn't really come up with a solution until I found a strip of spring steel in my <span class="blsp-spelling-corrected" id="SPELLING_ERROR_3">oddments</span> box.<br /><br /><div><div><div><div>And after a couple of hours here's the end result:<img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5440656159717033778" style="DISPLAY: block; MARGIN: 0px auto 10px; WIDTH: 320px; CURSOR: hand; HEIGHT: 240px; TEXT-ALIGN: center" alt="" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/_ZRAVhFdqFSQ/S4EX85D5hzI/AAAAAAAAMow/AMLnxrolXBs/s320/IMG_2771.JPG" border="0" /></div><div>Very neat and discrete and when not in use the arm folds away under the dashboard:<img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5440656173765378674" style="DISPLAY: block; MARGIN: 0px auto 10px; WIDTH: 320px; CURSOR: hand; HEIGHT: 240px; TEXT-ALIGN: center" alt="" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/_ZRAVhFdqFSQ/S4EX9tZSQnI/AAAAAAAAMo4/JbJUucQTfPY/s320/IMG_2774.JPG" border="0" /></div><div>There is a piece of chassis foam stuck to the underside of the arm to prevent the mount securing nut marking the the tunnel leather when it swings back under the dash. </div><div></div><div>The arm is fixed to the under-dash panel using a nylon washer to <span class="blsp-spelling-corrected" id="SPELLING_ERROR_4">create</span> a friction pivot:<img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5440656186846592962" style="DISPLAY: block; MARGIN: 0px auto 10px; WIDTH: 320px; CURSOR: hand; HEIGHT: 240px; TEXT-ALIGN: center" alt="" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/_ZRAVhFdqFSQ/S4EX-eIFv8I/AAAAAAAAMpI/rFEGxi_JxhQ/s320/IMG_2776.JPG" border="0" /></div></div></div></div>The under dash 12v socket is conveniently located for powering the Sat <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_5">Nav</span>. You can also see a small aluminium bracket that the arm locates into when in the "deployed" position - here's another view:<img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5440656194275840162" style="DISPLAY: block; MARGIN: 0px auto 10px; WIDTH: 320px; CURSOR: hand; HEIGHT: 240px; TEXT-ALIGN: center" alt="" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/_ZRAVhFdqFSQ/S4EX-5zXEKI/AAAAAAAAMpQ/FSOCbpb_iuE/s320/IMG_2777.JPG" border="0" />The bracket is just a cut <span class="blsp-spelling-corrected" id="SPELLING_ERROR_6">down</span> bit of aluminium box section bolted to the under dash panel. There is also a piece of chassis foam stuck to the top of the arm to space the arm off the bottom of the dash - just gives things a little more stability.<br /><br />I got a spare powered mount off E-bay and this was simply bolted to a hole drilled in the end of the arm:<img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5440656179904166418" style="DISPLAY: block; MARGIN: 0px auto 10px; WIDTH: 320px; CURSOR: hand; HEIGHT: 240px; TEXT-ALIGN: center" alt="" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/_ZRAVhFdqFSQ/S4EX-EQ4uhI/AAAAAAAAMpA/IDEoALkVUlg/s320/IMG_2775.JPG" border="0" />Job Done.<br /><p>The wires you keep seeing in the background are the leads from the battery conditioner you'll remember that I included a fly-lead under the dash to make connecting up easier.</p>STRhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/05729074033045662061noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-420977588509125272.post-9142182285493847132010-02-14T13:48:00.004+00:002010-02-14T14:04:10.317+00:00More Winter JobsTme to crack on with my list of things to do. Worked over and under the entire car checking nuts and other fasteners and lubricating / greasing every thing that needed it. All fluids were present and correct:<img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5438096817394513762" style="DISPLAY: block; MARGIN: 0px auto 10px; WIDTH: 320px; CURSOR: hand; HEIGHT: 240px; TEXT-ALIGN: center" alt="" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/_ZRAVhFdqFSQ/S3gAPj77d2I/AAAAAAAAMnA/ckIU_-YW6Qk/s320/IMG_2762.JPG" border="0" /> <div><div></div><div>Whilst I was under the car I noticed some drips of oil underneath the accusump - not enough to drip onto the floor (which is why I had not noticed before) but enough to need attention:<img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5438096826068934674" style="DISPLAY: block; MARGIN: 0px auto 10px; WIDTH: 320px; CURSOR: hand; HEIGHT: 240px; TEXT-ALIGN: center" alt="" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/_ZRAVhFdqFSQ/S3gAQEQEoBI/AAAAAAAAMnI/bonYWyYi-OM/s320/IMG_2764.JPG" border="0" /></div></div><br /><p>Bit puzzling as the valve was screwd up F.T. when it was all assembled? - managed to nip it up another quarter turn so that should fettle things. Got a few more odds and sods to do but the main outstanding essential job is to fit the Hood and Sidescreens. These should be ready to collect in a couple of weeks - which will clash with going on holiday.</p>STRhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/05729074033045662061noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-420977588509125272.post-78298824291332381442010-02-07T14:38:00.004+00:002010-02-13T11:07:52.731+00:00Adjusting the Rev-LimiterFollowing discussions with <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_0">Jez</span> my engine builder, he had informed me that it was OK to turn the Rev-Limiter up to 6000 rpm ( from the 5250 it is set at now). I was a bit worried that this would turn out to be a bit of a pain as I had hidden Mallory Hy-Fire unit away behind the dashboard - admittedly to put it out of the way of engine bay heat and water.<br /><div><div></div><br /><div>I needn't have worried - took out the three fixing bolts and it drops down as expected:<img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5435512220467827634" style="DISPLAY: block; MARGIN: 0px auto 10px; WIDTH: 320px; CURSOR: hand; HEIGHT: 240px; TEXT-ALIGN: center" alt="" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/_ZRAVhFdqFSQ/S27RkOFHk7I/AAAAAAAAMmw/G8fkEWkM2gc/s320/IMG_2715.JPG" border="0" /></div></div><p>It was then a simple matter of unplugging the th<span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_1">ree</span> harnesses and removing the heater vent pipe and Bob's your Uncle!<img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5435512222821175682" style="DISPLAY: block; MARGIN: 0px auto 10px; WIDTH: 320px; CURSOR: hand; HEIGHT: 240px; TEXT-ALIGN: center" alt="" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/_ZRAVhFdqFSQ/S27RkW2M0YI/AAAAAAAAMm4/JMOXvr-nruo/s320/IMG_2717.JPG" border="0" />Took the <span class="blsp-spelling-corrected" id="SPELLING_ERROR_2">access</span> panel off - twiddled the dial - and put it all back together - the under-dash panel went back as <span class="blsp-spelling-corrected" id="SPELLING_ERROR_3">easily</span> as it had come out.</p><p>Job Done.</p>STRhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/05729074033045662061noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-420977588509125272.post-50016172508812431912010-02-06T14:25:00.009+00:002010-02-06T15:21:47.364+00:00Adjusting Wheel CambersFirst things first, a trip to Machine Mart kitted me out with a set of "wobble bars" - socket extensions that will <span class="blsp-spelling-corrected" id="SPELLING_ERROR_0">accommodate</span> a +/- 10 degree deviation in line:<img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5435138529171403170" style="DISPLAY: block; MARGIN: 0px auto 10px; WIDTH: 320px; CURSOR: hand; HEIGHT: 240px; TEXT-ALIGN: center" alt="" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/_ZRAVhFdqFSQ/S219shhM8aI/AAAAAAAAMkg/XpWQfukZKT0/s320/IMG_2747.JPG" border="0" />As you can see below - the 500mm bar is just the job:<img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5435138537763156034" style="DISPLAY: block; MARGIN: 0px auto 10px; WIDTH: 320px; CURSOR: hand; HEIGHT: 240px; TEXT-ALIGN: center" alt="" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/_ZRAVhFdqFSQ/S219tBhosEI/AAAAAAAAMko/F_cOflT4eE0/s320/IMG_2748.JPG" border="0" />With the four <span class="blsp-spelling-corrected" id="SPELLING_ERROR_1">brake</span> disc retaining nuts removed, 5 minutes of rotating the drive shaft and tapping with a r<span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_2">ubber</span> mallet saw the shaft come free allowing the shim pack to be adjusted:<img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5435138548307445026" style="DISPLAY: block; MARGIN: 0px auto 10px; WIDTH: 320px; CURSOR: hand; HEIGHT: 240px; TEXT-ALIGN: center" alt="" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/_ZRAVhFdqFSQ/S219tozlxSI/AAAAAAAAMkw/V1mL5Y8Dm6k/s320/IMG_2749.JPG" border="0" />With the correct shims fitted new disc retaining nuts were fitted (important not to use the old ones) and tightened to the correct torque. Conveniently you can use the handbrake to prevent the shaft rotating. This becomes a bit of pain when working on the nearside as you keep having to walk round the car to operate <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_3">the</span> handbrake.<br /><div></div><br /><div>The cambers <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_4">wer</span><span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_5">e measured</span> before and after (at full droop) and the removal of four 20' shims on the offside saw a negative change in camber by 1.05 <span class="blsp-spelling-corrected" id="SPELLING_ERROR_6">degrees</span> and the removal of two 20' shims and the addition of a 10' shim on the nearside saw a negative change in camber of 0.35 degrees. This should give me near or damn it -0.5 camber at ride height on both rear wheels.</div><br /><div></div><div>All in all quite an easy task and nothing to feel daunted by. Next up was adjusting the camber on the front offside wheel. I had calculated that I needed to remove 3/16 of shim - however this was based on the original jag set up. The upper <span class="blsp-spelling-corrected" id="SPELLING_ERROR_7">wishbone</span> pick up points are orientated differently on the GD so a little trial and error was required. The original 1/4" shims were removed one at a time by loosening the fixing bolt:<img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5435138552090773666" style="DISPLAY: block; MARGIN: 0px auto 10px; WIDTH: 320px; CURSOR: hand; HEIGHT: 240px; TEXT-ALIGN: center" alt="" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/_ZRAVhFdqFSQ/S219t25myKI/AAAAAAAAMk4/ktd0vroB4_I/s320/IMG_2751.JPG" border="0" />The end result was found to be two stainless steel 7/16 washers giving a negative change in camber of 0.8 degree - which give or take 0.05 of a degree should be the same camber as the nearside wheel:</div><div><a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/_ZRAVhFdqFSQ/S219uTIwm7I/AAAAAAAAMlA/Ub_8T7EOvSE/s1600-h/IMG_2752.JPG"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5435138559670524850" style="DISPLAY: block; MARGIN: 0px auto 10px; WIDTH: 320px; CURSOR: hand; HEIGHT: 240px; TEXT-ALIGN: center" alt="" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/_ZRAVhFdqFSQ/S219uTIwm7I/AAAAAAAAMlA/Ub_8T7EOvSE/s320/IMG_2752.JPG" border="0" /></a> The <span class="blsp-spelling-corrected" id="SPELLING_ERROR_8">original</span> 1/4" shim - 250' was replaced with two 7/16" stainless washers at 45' each - so the total reduction in shim was 160' a t<span class="blsp-spelling-corrected" id="SPELLING_ERROR_9">ad</span> over 4mm and 30' less than the calculated 190'.<img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5435146245456004370" style="DISPLAY: block; MARGIN: 0px auto 10px; WIDTH: 320px; CURSOR: hand; HEIGHT: 240px; TEXT-ALIGN: center" alt="" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/_ZRAVhFdqFSQ/S22Etq60BRI/AAAAAAAAMlQ/-9BpJ7UOY6s/s320/IMG_2755.JPG" border="0" />Quite a <span class="blsp-spelling-corrected" id="SPELLING_ERROR_10">productive</span> morning - although I won't be able to check the final settings <span class="blsp-spelling-corrected" id="SPELLING_ERROR_11">until the</span> car is back on the ground.... but the indications look good.</div><div> </div><div></div><div></div><div>If there is a moral to this story then it is not to worry about cambers <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_12">too</span> much during the build as they are very <span class="blsp-spelling-corrected" id="SPELLING_ERROR_13">easily</span> adjusted once the car has been "shaken down" on the road.<br /><div></div></div>STRhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/05729074033045662061noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-420977588509125272.post-745446346055298172010-02-06T14:07:00.003+00:002010-02-06T14:23:29.297+00:00Jaguar Suspension DevelopmentBefore I get round to adjusting the wheel cambers on the car, it is time for a history lesson with some of the background behnd the Jaguar's development of its suspension systems:<br /><br /><div><div></div><div>From the early 1960s to the present day virtually all serious racing cars have used the classic double wishbone suspension arrangement, or a close variation on the theme. There are many alternatives that have seen widespread use: beam axle, de Dion, swinging arm, trailing arm (even semi-trailing arm), sliding pillar (Morgan, unbelievably in this day and age), McPherson strut (front) and Chapman strut (same thing at rear), but for precise control of wheel movement and low unsprung weight, double wishbones remain the favourite. The beauty of the arrangement is that by careful design of the pivot points and arm lengths the camber of the wheel can be maintained close to the optimum even while the body rolls during cornering. Not only that but the roll centre - a term for the abstract point around which the car rolls when cornering - can be held consistent thereby helping to confer the vehicle with stable handling characteristics. Then there are ways of further refining the handling characteristics by angling the axes of the wishbones in various ways. For instance wheel toe-in and castor angle can be made to vary with body roll to enhance steering feel, or upward suspension deflection can be made to act against the forward weight transfer under braking to oppose front end dip. This is known as anti-dive and a similar arrangement in reverse, known as anti-squat, can be applied at the rear. </div><br /><div>Jaguar's legendary Technical Director, William Heynes, knew that independent front suspension was essential for any car that claimed to be advanced and refined, so had adopted double wishbones at the front on the Mk V saloon just after WW2. However the case for independent rear suspension was not so clear cut and even the outstanding D Type had a live axle at the rear, which helps to explain why its greatest successes were nearly always at race tracks with the smoothest surfaces. Obviously this handicap would only become worse so Bob Knight and his team, with one eye on production applications, devised an independent rear suspension for an experimental successor to the D Type known as E2A. Within a year the E Type was launched (1961) with a productionised version of this same independent rear end, incorporating the now familiar rubber mountings as a vibration barrier and trailing arms to provide fore and aft control. It continued with only minor alterations until the last XJ-S left Browns Lane in 1996. <img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5435135444770156210" style="DISPLAY: block; MARGIN: 0px auto 10px; WIDTH: 299px; CURSOR: hand; HEIGHT: 320px; TEXT-ALIGN: center" alt="" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/_ZRAVhFdqFSQ/S2164_Oo7rI/AAAAAAAAMkY/eYw7AFC6jRo/s320/front+susp.JPG" border="0" /></div><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5435135435985217218" style="DISPLAY: block; MARGIN: 0px auto 10px; WIDTH: 320px; CURSOR: hand; HEIGHT: 245px; TEXT-ALIGN: center" alt="" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/_ZRAVhFdqFSQ/S2164egJZsI/AAAAAAAAMkQ/oS36O3o_Ais/s320/rear+susp.jpg" border="0" />A notable but less well-known member of Bob Knight's team was Derrick White, highly regarded in club racing circles for creating his effective Impala racing car, later moving from Jaguar to be Chief Designer for the Cooper F1 team and then being credited for the Honda/Lola that enabled John Surtees to snatch a lucky win at the 1967 Italian GP. Talent was not a rare commodity at Jaguar in those days. The point of all this, of course, is to show that Jaguar were near the forefront of vehicle design with suspension systems technically superior to those of most other manufacturers of the time. It may not be obvious but Jaguar's well-known independent rear suspension assembly is geometrically very similar to the double wishbone system preferred by race car designers, in the way wheel camber is controlled. This becomes clearer when the pivot points are highlighted as in the accompanying diagram. Particularly notable is that the driveshaft doubles as the top link so that the under-floor space requirement is kept to the minimum.</div>STRhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/05729074033045662061noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-420977588509125272.post-699667394793008722010-01-31T16:57:00.005+00:002010-01-31T17:07:54.282+00:00Preparing to Change the Rear CamberDouble checked all yesterdays measurements - OK. Up on axles stands and wheels off. The whole chassis was then levelled by jacking up and inserting thin washers between the chassis and the axle stands and checking with my fancy new digital level.<br /><div></div><br /><div>Next step is to remove the drive shaft nuts in order to change the shims between the drive shafts and the brake discs:<img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5432950202754343170" style="DISPLAY: block; MARGIN: 0px auto 10px; WIDTH: 320px; CURSOR: hand; HEIGHT: 240px; TEXT-ALIGN: center" alt="" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/_ZRAVhFdqFSQ/S2W3bKWPIQI/AAAAAAAAMi4/nUZQQgzvlI0/s320/IMG_2712.JPG" border="0" /></div><br /><p>That's the little beggars in the distance! <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_0">Hmmmm</span>..... I feel a trip to Machine Mart <span class="blsp-spelling-corrected" id="SPELLING_ERROR_1">coming</span> to get a long enough socket extension! Should be strightforward after that.</p><p>I also need to get some replacement nuts. They are steel locking nuts and as such cannot be re-used. I'll get some ordered tomorrow.</p>STRhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/05729074033045662061noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-420977588509125272.post-29155119841823207442010-01-30T14:26:00.014+00:002010-01-31T17:39:41.376+00:00Obessive Compulsive Disorders - 1. SuspensionIt's been a while but the snow eventually melted, then I was ill for a couple of weeks - so now its time to get back into the garage to start on some of those winter jobs.<br /><br />First on the list - suspension settings. After Andy test drove the car after the fitting of the anti-roll bar down at GD, he recommended that I tweak the camber settings a little. The first step is to establish the starting point?<br /><br />Now Santa had very kindly brought me one of these:<br /><br /><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5432542094385902610" style="DISPLAY: block; MARGIN: 0px auto 10px; WIDTH: 320px; CURSOR: hand; HEIGHT: 240px; TEXT-ALIGN: center" alt="" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/_ZRAVhFdqFSQ/S2REQIM6dBI/AAAAAAAAMiY/lTPlL1Iu34A/s320/IMG_2709.JPG" border="0" />Very handy - loads of features and accurate to 0.05 <span class="blsp-spelling-corrected" id="SPELLING_ERROR_0">degrees</span> (3 minutes). The next step was to cut to length a piece of steel angle (magnetic base on the level) to fit on the wheel rims: <img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5432543150187232898" style="DISPLAY: block; MARGIN: 0px auto 10px; WIDTH: 320px; CURSOR: hand; HEIGHT: 240px; TEXT-ALIGN: center" alt="" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/_ZRAVhFdqFSQ/S2RFNlXkPoI/AAAAAAAAMig/EVfpiujgonM/s320/IMG_2710.JPG" border="0" /> Note the electrical tape on the ends to avoid scratching the rims. It then becomes quite a simple <span class="blsp-spelling-corrected" id="SPELLING_ERROR_1">task</span> to measure wheel cambers (after removing the spinners) :<img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5432543728706731042" style="DISPLAY: block; MARGIN: 0px auto 10px; WIDTH: 240px; CURSOR: hand; HEIGHT: 320px; TEXT-ALIGN: center" alt="" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/_ZRAVhFdqFSQ/S2RFvQhXPCI/AAAAAAAAMio/ywTbwQqFXRU/s320/IMG_2711.JPG" border="0" /><span class="blsp-spelling-corrected" id="SPELLING_ERROR_2">Before</span> actually measuring the wheel cambers I checked all the ride heights. The car had not been jacked up since it was last driven into the garage, but still I rolled and "bounced" it back and forth a couple of times to ensure the suspension was settled. I then check the ride heights side to side at the front and rear. These checked out to be only 1mm different at the <span class="blsp-spelling-corrected" id="SPELLING_ERROR_3">front</span> and 2mm different at the rear - good enough. <p>In reality you should carry out suspension angular measurements on a level surface - my garage floor isn't level - but is pretty smooth and flat as evidenced by the uniform ride heights. The alternative is to measure the angle of the floor and adjust the measure angles accordingly. I did this my measuring the angle of a couple of the horizontal chassis rails.</p><p>I found that the car sloped down to the offside by 0.25 <span class="blsp-spelling-corrected" id="SPELLING_ERROR_4">degrees</span> - probably good enough for the builder of my garage floor! After measuring the wheel cambers I subtracted the floor slope to get the following results:<img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5432550993901018722" style="DISPLAY: block; MARGIN: 0px auto 10px; WIDTH: 222px; CURSOR: hand; HEIGHT: 320px; TEXT-ALIGN: center" alt="" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/_ZRAVhFdqFSQ/S2RMWJeqXmI/AAAAAAAAMiw/tGHIRBIEoCc/s320/Cambers.jpg" border="0" /></p><p><span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_5">Hmmm</span>...... 2 Wheels camber the right way at least!.... one doesn't camber at all and the remaining one cambers the wrong way! To be honest these aren't massive deviations. For the Jag Chassis with 18" wheels GD recommend 0.5 degrees negative camber on the rears and 0.75 degrees negative camber on the fronts.</p><p>I've got a couple of print-outs from having the tracking adjusted on the four wheel laser aligner down my local tyre place - the problem was that I <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_6">didn'</span>t know which was the <span class="blsp-spelling-corrected" id="SPELLING_ERROR_7">last</span> one as they had no dates on - with th<span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_8">ese</span> measurements I now know which the latest one is as the measurements are pretty close - all within 0.2 of a degree.</p><p>Now a lot more thought has gone into the design of the Jaguar Suspension than you may think. A quick look in any <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_9">XJ</span>6 service manual will reveal the following:</p><p>One 20 thou rear camber shim adjusts the camber by 1/4 of a degree.</p><p>One 1/16" front camber shim adjusts the front camber by 1/4 of a degree.</p><p>Simples!</p><p>So this would indicate that I need to do the following:</p><p>Front near-side: <span class="blsp-spelling-corrected" id="SPELLING_ERROR_10">Measured</span> -0.8 deg, Target -0.75 deg: Leave as is.</p><p>Front off-side: Measured 0 deg, Target - 0.75deg: remove 3/16 of shim.</p><p>Rear near-side: Measured -0.1 deg, Target -0.5 deg: remove 2x20 thou' add 1x10 thou' shims.</p><p>Rear off-side: Measured +0.55 deg, Target -0.5 deg: remove 4 x 20 thou' shims.</p><p>Before embarking on this I'll just double check my measurements.</p><p>Obviously things have changed since the build????? </p><ul><li>Initially the cambers were set at an estimated ride height - the actual ride height has changed a few times since the car has been on the road and with the unequal length wishbones there will be a noticeable camber change with a change in ride height.</li><li>The front suspension was set up before the engine and the chassis brace were fitted - I had to jack one engine mount up to get the <span class="blsp-spelling-corrected" id="SPELLING_ERROR_11">chassis</span> brace in - and this would have had an effect on the position of the top wishbone pivot.</li><li>The original camber gauge I used was a graduated bubble affair - nowhere near as accurate as the one I have now.</li><li>The front camber were a little uneven at build and as I only had 1/4" camber spaces I just fitted them and forgot to remember to check it later..... until now.</li><li>There is a limit to the accuracy that can be obtained by "reading a bubble" so even when setting the chassis level with a conventional level errors may well have crept in.</li></ul><p>So to some extent during the build you are guessing a bit. Only when you have your chosen wheels and tyres and settled on a ride height will you be able to set things exactly.</p><p>My only worry now is that in those <span class="blsp-spelling-corrected" id="SPELLING_ERROR_12">locations</span> where I need to remove shim I hope there is actually enough shim in there to remove!</p><p>Watch this space........</p><p>**** STOP PRESS ****</p><p>Handy things these blogs..... just looked back through the suspension build up sections - I used 1/4" camber spacers on the front - so the offside just need to be replace with a 1/16" shim (3/16" removed) - I also used 4 x 20 thou' camber shims on the rear so I can remove them all.</p>STRhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/05729074033045662061noreply@blogger.com0