Right then - down to business. The first job was to fit the bare diff (with only the pivot shaft brackets fitted) to the chassis and then to part fit the lower wishbones and hubs so I can check the rear wheel toe in (hopefully not toe out) and work out what shims will be needed between the diff and pivot brackets.
I fitted the wishbones without seals and washer at this stage and fitted the hubs to the ends. The end of the wishbone was packed up to give a 2" fall representing the normal running attitude. Then with a car jack under the hub, the hub was levelled vertical as shown below (this of course after checking that the chassis was level across it's width):
Once done a laser level was clamped to the hub face (and aligned horizontal) as shown in the next photo:
A piece of wood was clamped under the front cross member and the distance from the centre of the front lower wishbone pivot to the laser was marked.
I could then determine the toe-in (although measured over 2.3m (ish). This was repeated for the other side.
End result?........... offside 8mm toe-in - nearside 22mm toe out!!!
Not right - now admittedly I had the front chassis angle that takes the pivot shaft in place but the rear one wouldn't quite fit - it appeared that I would need some weird shimming arrangement to get it to fit - which is why I thought I best check.
Now Andy states that the brackets are drilled spot on. So tomorrow I will remove the pivot brackets from the diff and check the alignment with the pivot shaft angles fitted and see what that gives. If it is ok then I can leave the angles fitted - remove the wishbones and try to fit the pivot brackets using the angles to align the pivot shafts.
Might give GD a call - see what they advise?
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