Saturday, 6 February 2010

Adjusting Wheel Cambers

First things first, a trip to Machine Mart kitted me out with a set of "wobble bars" - socket extensions that will accommodate a +/- 10 degree deviation in line:As you can see below - the 500mm bar is just the job:With the four brake disc retaining nuts removed, 5 minutes of rotating the drive shaft and tapping with a rubber mallet saw the shaft come free allowing the shim pack to be adjusted:With the correct shims fitted new disc retaining nuts were fitted (important not to use the old ones) and tightened to the correct torque. Conveniently you can use the handbrake to prevent the shaft rotating. This becomes a bit of pain when working on the nearside as you keep having to walk round the car to operate the handbrake.

The cambers were measured before and after (at full droop) and the removal of four 20' shims on the offside saw a negative change in camber by 1.05 degrees and the removal of two 20' shims and the addition of a 10' shim on the nearside saw a negative change in camber of 0.35 degrees. This should give me near or damn it -0.5 camber at ride height on both rear wheels.

All in all quite an easy task and nothing to feel daunted by. Next up was adjusting the camber on the front offside wheel. I had calculated that I needed to remove 3/16 of shim - however this was based on the original jag set up. The upper wishbone pick up points are orientated differently on the GD so a little trial and error was required. The original 1/4" shims were removed one at a time by loosening the fixing bolt:The end result was found to be two stainless steel 7/16 washers giving a negative change in camber of 0.8 degree - which give or take 0.05 of a degree should be the same camber as the nearside wheel:
The original 1/4" shim - 250' was replaced with two 7/16" stainless washers at 45' each - so the total reduction in shim was 160' a tad over 4mm and 30' less than the calculated 190'.Quite a productive morning - although I won't be able to check the final settings until the car is back on the ground.... but the indications look good.
If there is a moral to this story then it is not to worry about cambers too much during the build as they are very easily adjusted once the car has been "shaken down" on the road.